The Basics - introduction
These instructions should give you a good grounding in the correct way use your paint masks. Please read them carefully and if you have any questions please contact me before using your masks!
1. The paint is all important!
Best results are going to be achieved by spraying your paint rather than using a brush. Be sure you know how to spray the paint you have purchased as the finish for insignia needs to be sprayed as thinly as possible to achieve the colour with minimum paint build. Use the same brand of paint you used to spray your model with. Swapping brands can have disastrous results!
Follow your paint manufacturers instructions for spraying and observe the recommended drying and re-application times.
Flightline Graphics Recommends the following Paints:
Klass-Kote is a solvent based 2 pack epoxy paint |
 Warbird Colours are water based used with cross linking catalyst |
2. Storage of your decals.Paint Masks are supplied in board backed envelopes or, for larger models, a pizza style box. It is highly recommended you store the masks in the delivery package inside your home away from fluctuating temperatures. You should also avoid storage in the vicinity of windows and near heating systems. Fluctuating temperatures weaken the adhesive and also has the potential to affect alignment of multi layered markings.
Great care has been taken to pack and label the decals in a way that is easy for you to follow. Each mask requiring identification will have a code cut into the vinyl, particularly useful when you are building several layers of paint. |
» More info
Richard Crapp's Ryan PT22 The lower Port wing with the Paint Masks applied ready for their first coat of paint.
|
3. Labeling convention.
Insignia made up of more than one layer (colour) will typically have identification markings to help you identify which decal is which. The decals will have been packed in a logical order when they were dispatched to make the identification process easier. Typically the coding will be something like this:
| Code | Meaning |
| FU | Fuselage Insignia |
| SQ | Squadron or rank marks on the fuselage |
| SN | Serial Number |
| TW | Top Wing insignia |
| BW | Bottom Wing Insignia |
| FF | Fin Flash markings |
Following this code there will be a hyphen followed by a letter or number indicating the order of application. For example a standard RAF type B roundel is made up of 2 colours, blue & red. This insignia will have 2 masks, the blue mask will be labeled TW-A or TW-1, and the inner red circle will be labeled TW-B or TW-2. Use the masks in alphabetical order - A, B, C, etc. to build up the finished insignia. Some customers will have requested the colours to be built in a particular order to meet individual preferences and the coding convention will reflect that request. I strongly recommend you become familiar with the masks and put them into sets for easy identification before use. Some masks will be further marked with a /R or /L to indicate left or right side of the model (as viewed from behind).
IMPORTANT: The letters do not have anything to do with a particular colour!
4. Registration marks.Insignia with more than one colour needs a method for ensuring that each mask can be over-layed with good accuracy. To do this 1.3mm circular registration holes are cut into the surface of the mask during the production process where required.
In the type "B" roundel opposite you can just see in the dead centre of the middle disk a small white dot. This is the registration mark for the roundel. Most round insignia only need one central registration mark, but anything else will require 2 or more to permit alignment.
Single colour decals like serial numbers do not have registration marks or identification numbers. |
 |
5. Registration Pins.For registration pins I recommend the use standard drawing pins secured to the surface of the model using high tack masking tape. These pins remain in position while all the colours are spray applied. I recommend TESA® 4316 tape or another suitable quality branded tape for this process.
| |
Tip: Drawing pins normally have a domed shape head which needs to be flattened before you use them so that they will have a lower profile on the model.
The best way to do this is to get a scrap piece of hardwood, drill a hole big enough to accommodate the pin. Put the pin in the hole and then hit the dome of the pin head with a hammer a few times. As you can see in the picture opposite the head can be made perfectly flat.
Depending on the insignia you are applying you will normally expect round insignia to have one alignment pin in the centre, while non-circular markings needing 2. Make sure you prepare sufficient pins for your model before you start! |
 |
6. Preparing registration pins for use.
One of the most important procedures with multi coloured insignia is the accurate positioning of registration marks. Depending on the shape of your insignia you will have one or two registration marks. Regardless of which procedure you are going to use, preparation of the pins for use is identical.
Registration marks are nothing more than a small hole in the paint mask. The holes are about 1.3mm in diameter, just the right size to accommodate a large drawing pin which should be used for the registration pin. Registration marks are cut into the vinyl during the production process and should not be altered as the chances of making good alignment will not be as accurate as those that have already been cut.
Single registration marks.The only insignia with one registration mark will be those that are made from ever decreasing circles. The RAF roundels are the best examples. One pin in the centre of the roundel can be used to fix the position of every other circle.
Multiple registration marks.It is necessary when a non-circular pattern is required to have 2 reference points to provide datum's for the pattern to be laid down accurately. Insignia such as the US Stars & Bars and the German Iron Cross are typical examples. |
 |
Pierce the registration marksTo begin this preparation work you should locate the small registration holes in the masks. If you are having difficulty locating them, hold the mask to a well lit window or a bright light and you should then be able to see the small hole in the mask.
Using a fine pin, puncture a hole through the heart of the registration hole as carefully as you can. Do this for all registration marks. |
 |
Install the securing masking tape.Prepare strips of silicone paper cut a little wider than the masking tape you are using.
Having flattened the heads of the drawing pins (see above) Lay the pin on a strip of silicone paper. Cut a short length high tack masking tape and lay it over the pin centrally before pushing it down to meet the silicone paper tacky side down.
Run your mouse pointer over the image opposite to see the installed tape.
Tip: I recommend TESA® 4316 tape or another suitable quality branded tape for this process. |
 |
Locate the pins in the registration marks.At the relevant point in your application process install the registration pin into the registration mark from the back of the mask guided by the pin holes you punched into the registration marks earlier.
|
 |
Ready for actionEach registration hole on a mask will require one of the above prepared registration pins installing.
Once done you are ready to affix the first masks to your model
The picture opposite shows the mask ready for use on a 2 pin installation for the black colour of the Iron Cross. |
 |
Good practice.
Insignia are some of the last major colours to apply to your model. Be sure that the paint already applied to your model is compatible with the paint you are using for the insignia. After insignia there should only be weathering and possibly a final clear coat varnish to give a uniform lush finish and / or fuel proofing.
If you are going to use different paints and lacquers to finish your model, a good practice is to prepare a test plate which should be painted as you paint your model. Prime it, practice panel lines and rivets, colour, insignia and lacquer can all be tested for compatibility before you commit to the model!
If your model has been standing for a long period of time before you get round to apply your insignia you should wash the model surface thoroughly to ensure it is spotlessly clean. if advised by the paint manufacturers you should also consider abrading the surface with a suitable Scotch Brite™ pad. This helps ensure good adhesion of masking tapes, the paint mask, and more importantly the paint.
Paint masks use a special medium tack adhesive which will not deposit any residue on the surface of the model when you remove the mask. If you work in a cold, dusty, or windy environment then you are unlikely to achieve good results so ensure good housekeeping is maintained during the entire process and apply the masks at room temperature, ideally 18° - 28°C.
Return to the instructions index page: Click Here
