Simulation - Full Fuselage markings

Objective of this workshop.

Some fuselage insignia schemes are a combination of one or two colours.  In these situations it may be possible to apply all markings at the same time to be more productive and reduce paint wastage. You will be informed of this option if it will work on your model.

For this exercise I am going to simulate the application of a Gruppen Kommodore, III Gruppe markings to the fuselage.  In the image opposite you can see that there are 3 elements to apply, and they have to conform to a fuselage with a slight compound curve over a long distance which has to be accommodated by the mask.

Also, there is an interesting arrangement of patterns, the Front Gruppen Kpmmodore markings are black with a white border, and the III Gruppe mark to the rear is the opposite way round - white with a black border.

Lest's see how the mask is applied to resolve these issues.

The masks to be used

The insignia for all 3 markings will be applied with just 2 masks.  The "A" mask on the right of the image will be used to add the black colour, and the "B" mask to the right, will apply the white colour.

The masks are shown here as other paint masks, but there is further preparation required when using this procedure.  This additional preparation will help the mask confirm to the curvature of the fuselage by introducing a series of cuts down the length of the mask.  Masks intended for this procedure will be supplied ready prepared unless agreed otherwise.

Note.  The mask material I use is very malleable and will conform to small compound curves easily.  It is far more conforming compared to the much cheaper blue and green mask materials available on the market.

1.

As supplied.

Opposite is an example of how this mask would be supplied.  Between each element the mask will have a cut from the edge to just short of the centre line of the decal.  Usually a 20mm margin of uncut material resides in the middle.

If you look at the image opposite a centre line with 2 parallel lines 10mm on each side can be seen.  These were used by me to make the cuts.  To add some rigidity to the mask a strip of standard masking tape has been run over the application tape to hold everything together.

If you run your mouse over the image opposite you will see a closer view of the lines.

2.

Position the mask and registration pins.

Clean the model surface and use alignment methods described in one of the prerequisite worksheets at the top of the page.

Apply the registration pins taking particular care not to over stretch the mask while applying the second pin.   I recommend you apply the pin to the rear of the model first as this area is likely to have more curvature than that at the front of the model.

When lifting the mask from the newly installed pins you MUST always lift the mask from the front pin before lifting it from the rear pin!

3.

Remove the silicone backing.

On a flat clean surface lay the mask face down and peel the silicone paper off.  For larger models you might need some assistance with this procedure. DO NOT DISPOSE OF!

It's worth reminding you not to touch the mask on the tacky side.  If you have to touch the surface, make contact with the outer extremities of the mask as shown opposite, never next to the cut pattern!

Reminder  As you are exposing the tacky side of the mask before application, hygiene is extremely important.  Make sure the working area is clean and free from excessive airborne dust particles!

4.

Trim the silicone paper.

Move the exposed mask to one side, tacky side up.  Without delay you need to prepare the silicone paper. 

On a clean suitable surface, and with a NEW scalpel blade, you need to cut the silicone paper along the position of the 2 lines that run parallel to the centre line shown in (1) above. These lines will not be visible on the silicone paper but the position can be worked out by cutting across the ends of the pre cut sections as a guide.

Ensure your ruler and work surfaces are clean!

WARNING  you must use a new blade to be sure the cut will be clean.  A dull blade will create excessive dust which will transfer to the mask reducing the efficiency of the adhesive.

5.

Cutting procedure finished.

With the silicone paper cut you should now have a 20mm strip the length if the mask and a series of small rectangular sections for the various images on the mask. 

6.

Re-fit the silicone paper.

Return the silicone sections to the paint mask except for the long centre section which can be discarded.  Position each piece as close to it's original location but it does not have to be 100% accurate.

Be sure to apply it "silicone side down" onto the tacky surface!

7.

Ready to return mask to the model.

Once finished the mask should look something like the image opposite.

8.

Position mask on registration pins.

This is a very important stage and has to be completed with great care to ensure the mask sits correctly!  I recommend resting the fuselage on its side so that the mask is Laid down onto the surface.

Check the surface of the model is clean and free from dust and finger prints.

Start by locating the mask on the rear pin and gently lay the mask onto the model with moderate tension.  Don't rub the centre section down and don't pull as this will snag the mask in the rear pin.  Hold the mask near the rear pin so that it is protected from snagging.

As you lay the mask down you should locate the front pin with ease.  Don't force it to locate. If adjustment left or right is needed, lift the mask until you can re-position without force.

Take your time with this process and be absolutely sure there it sits true in position before you continue.

9.

Fix the centre of the mask down.

Using light pressure to begin with, rub your finger up and down the centre section of the mask between the registration pins.  As you run your finger up and down slowly increase the pressure to get a good seal.

Note:  There is no need for excessive pressure!

10.

Remove securing masking tapes.

Now that the centre section is safely located the masking tape that bridges the cuts on the mask can be removed.

Be careful not to snag the application tape or the mask during this process.

11.

Remove silicone sheets.

The small silicone sheets can now be removed.  Only remove one at a time fixing the mask to the surface before progressing to the next one.

Simply fold back the mask and remove the silicone paper.  I start from one of the sections in the middle but there is no fixed rule or reason for this other than preference.

Remember to avoid touching the mask surface near the cut edges of the paint borders!

12.

Rub down the mask.

Return the mask over the surface and hold the edge a few centimetres above the surface as shown opposite.  Then with the fingers on your other hand begin wiping to and fro, starting from the centre section working your way to the outer edge steadily and progressively.

And again there is no need for excessive pressure!

13.

Remove silicone from the opposite end.

As (11) above remove the corresponding silicone sheet for the insignia you have just laid.

14.

Rub down the mask.

As for (12) above rub down the mask as before to complete that section of the insignia.

15.

Fix all sections of the mask to the model.

Repeat these steps to fix the remaining mask elements to the surface of the model.  Be sure that there is no tension or stretch in the film that could cause the mask to lift during the spray operation.

16.

Remove the application tape.

Now that the mask is down it's time to remove the application tape.  It is best to remove it in sections.  In this example I am tearing the mask down the middle and as close to the registration hole as possible. 

Pull the tape with gentle pressure at 180° to the surface as shown opposite.  Do not peel back too fast and continuously look for the mask separating from the tape as you go.  If you see the mask lifting with the application tape, fold it back and rub down the area that is lifting before continuing. 

As with any operation, take your time, remember the mask only has medium tack like the application tape!

17.

Ready for spraying.

To ensure a good seal between the mask and the model surface you should gently but firmly rub down the entire mask edge that borders the paint area to ensure the mask seats firmly in position.  You only need to do the first 5mm or so for it to be effective.

Use a spoon handle with a rounded face, or alternatively, I know some people use the leading edge of a new propeller.  It does not really matter what you use as long as it has NO sharp right angle edges.  You will notice the mask takes on a darker colour as it is firmed down in these areas. 

If your mask has to bridge panel lines (grooves) I suggest running your finger nail down the groove to seat the paint mask.  Over rivets the mask should have enough flexibility to stretch and seal as you work the edge down.

Remember to use plenty of supplementary masking to protect the rest of your model from overspray. Make sure all the cuts between the insignia are also covered with tape to ensure spray does not get into the small gaps that will be present.

18.

Spraying.

As this is a simulation I will not be spraying any paint.

You should follow all of the manufacturers instructions for best results with your paint. The most important factor is to not overload the surface with too much paint otherwise you will encourage some bleeding into the edges where the paint mask sits.  This will create large ridges when the paint dries resulting in an un-natural finish.

Allow sufficient time for the paint to flash off most of the carrier solvent before you add the next pass of paint.  Water based paints can take much longer to flash off due to the low evaporation rate of water.  Typically you will need to apply 3 or more light coats of paint. 

For this simulation I have applied a black vinyl substitute to give the impression of colour.  Naturally you will have over spray when using your equipment.

19.

Remove the mask.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the paint is dry or almost dry before removing the mask.  More critical for water based paints as they are prone to lifting if they are not fully cured.

Remove all the supplementary masking material used to protect the model during the spray process first.

Then remove the paint mask carefully.  Do not simply lift from one corner and peel off like a sticking plaster.  Start from one corner or side, cutting into the mask with a sharp knife working your way to the painted edge as you peel back the paint mask.

Continue to peel the mask back at 180° to the surface following the outline of the painted edge.  Take your time!

20.

Prepare the second "B" mask.

Fix the mask to the registration pins before you start the preparation.  You should prepare this mask just like the first mask from section (2) onwards.  

Note:  before applying the second mask you may want to use "000" wire wool, or fine wet and dry to remove any lip that may have formed on the edge of the first colour.  If you are not familiar with these techniques, please practice on sample material first before you use them on the model!

This is very important for the areas where the mask overlaps a section of the previous colour.  In the example opposite the only part of the mask affected by this method is the forward Gruppen Kommodore "triangle" where the black has been extended slightly so that slight variation in the seating of the second mask does not result in gaps between the 2 colours.

21.

Silicone sheet preparation.

Continue to repeat the procedure used for the "A" mask earlier.

22.

Second mask ready for use.

The preparation is exactly the same for the silicone sheets.

23.

Applying the second mask.

Fix the mask to the fuselage as in (8) above.  Take your time and be sure the mask is sitting in position without any forced positioning of the mask.

24.

Remove securing masking tapes.

When the mask is secured along the centre you can remove the masking tape that bridges the cuts on the mask.

Be careful not to snag the application tape or the mask during this process.

25.

Apply the mask.

Apply the mask to the surface as previously shown for all the sections.

26.

Remove application tape

With the whole of the mask secured you can remove the application tape as before.

27.

Ready for spraying colour 2.

Don't forget to seal the mask to the model surface by firmly rubbing down the entire mask edge that borders the paint area to ensure the mask seats firmly in position.  You only need to do the first 5mm or so for it to be effective.

Remember to use plenty of supplementary masking to protect the rest of your model from overspray. Make sure all the cuts between the insignia are also covered with tape to ensure spray does not get into the small gaps that will be present.

28.

Second colour applied.

Again this is a simulation so the white colour is represented by white vinyl to give an impression of where the paint goes. 

29.

Remove the mask.

IMPORTANT: Make sure the paint is dry or almost dry before removing the mask.  More critical for water based paints as they are prone to lifting if they are not fully cured.

Remove all the supplementary masking material used to protect the model during the spray process first.

Then remove the paint mask carefully.  Do not simply lift from one corner and peel off like a sticking plaster.  Start from one corner or side, cutting into the mask with a sharp knife working your way to the painted edge as you peel back the paint mask.

Continue to peel the mask back at 180° to the surface following the outline of the painted edge.

27.

The finished item.

After the mask is removed give the insignia one final light rub over with "000" wire wool (optional) and the job is finished.

Perfect insignia every time!