Quality generic and custom paint masks, vinyl decals, and dry rub decal kits for modellers.

Introduction - the basics

These instructions should give you a good understanding of the basic procedures to use your paint masks correctly. Please read them carefully and if you have any questions please contact me before you use your masks!

The paint is all important.

Best results are going to be achieved by spraying your paint rather than using a brush. Be sure you know how to spray the paint you have purchased as the finish for insignia needs to be sprayed as thinly as possible to achieve the colour. Use the same brand of paint you used to spray your model with. Swapping brands can have disastrous results!

Follow your paint manufacturers instructions for spraying and observe the recommended drying times.

Storage of your decals.

Paint Masks are supplied in board backed envelopes or, for larger models, a pizza style box. It is highly recommended you store the decals in the delivery package inside your home away from fluctuating temperatures. You should also avoid storage in the vicinity of windows and near heating systems. Fluctuating temperatures weaken the adhesive and also have the potential to affect alignment of multi layered decals.

Great care has been taken to pack and label the decals in a way that is easy for you to follow. Each mask requiring identification will have a code cut into the vinyl, particularly useful when you are building several layers of paint for one insignia mark.

Labelling convention.

Insignia made up of more than one layer (colour) will typically have identification markings to help you identify which decal is which. The decals will have been packed in a logical order when they were despatched to make the identification process easier. Typically the coding will be something like this: TW-A these can be interpreted as follows.

Code	Meaning
FU	Fuselage Insignia
SQ	Squadron or rank marks on the fuselage
SN	Serial Number
TW	Top Wing insignia
BW	Bottom Wing Insignia
FF	Fin Flash markings

The letter after the hyphen gives the order of application. For example a standard RAF type B roundel is made up of 2 colours, blue & red. This insignia will have 2 masks, the blue mask will be labelled TW-A, and the inner red circle will be labelled TW-B. Use the masks in alphabetical order - A, B, C, etc. to build up the finished insignia. Some customers will have requested the colours to be built in a particular order to meet individual preferences and the coding convention will reflect that request. I strongly recommend you sit down and become familiar with the masks and put them into sets for easy identification before you start to use them. Some masks will be further marked with a /R or /L to indicate left or right side of the model (as viewed from behind).

IMPORTANT: The letters do not have anything to do with a particular colour!

For round insignia.

Round insignia as in the photo opposite shows an RAF type B Roundel with the 2 masks clearly labelled in the lower corner.

The small disk of paint mask at the centre is there only to hold the position of the registration mark and can be removed once the mask has been installed and the application tape removed. You will see this in the workshops later on.

Registration marks.

Insignia with more than one colour needs a system for ensuring that each colour mask is applied in exactly the same position. To do this 1.3mm circular registration marks are cut into the surface of the mask during the production process where required.

In the type "B" roundel opposite you can just see in the dead centre of the middle disk a small white dot. This is the registration mark for the roundel.

Most round insignia only need one central registration mark, but anything else will require 2 or more to permit alignment.

Single colour decals like serial numbers do not have registration marks or identification numbers.

Registration Pins.

For registration pins I recommend the use of drawing pins secured to the surface of the model using high tack masking tape. These pins remain in position while all the colours are spray applied. I recommend TESA® 4316 tape or another suitable quality branded tape for this process.

Tip: Drawing pins normally have a domed shape head which needs to be flattened before you use them so that they will have a lower profile on the model.

The best way to do this is to get a scrap piece of hardwood, drill a hole big enough to accommodate the pin. Put the pin in the hole and then hit the dome of the pin head with a hammer a few times. As you can see in the picture opposite the head can be made perfectly flat.

Depending on the insignia you are applying you will normally expect round insignia to have one alignment pin in the centre, while non-circular markings will require 2. Make sure you prepare sufficient pins for your model before you start!

Good practice.

Insignia is the last major colour coat to apply to your model. Be sure that the paint already applied to your model has been given sufficient time to harden. After insignia there should only be weathering and possibly a final clear coat varnish to give a uniform lush finish and / or fuel proofing.

If your model has been standing for a long period of time before you get round to apply your insignia you should wash the model surface thoroughly to ensure it is spotlessly clean. This helps ensure good adhesion of masking tapes, the paint mask, and more importantly the paint finish will have a perfect clean crisp line.

Paint masks use a special medium tack adhesive which will not deposit any residue on the surface of the model when you remove the mask. If you work in a cold dusty, windy, and dirty environment then you are unlikely to achieve perfect results so ensure good housekeeping is maintained during the entire process and apply the decals at room temperature, ideally 18° - 28°C.

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